Always "C" Your Happy Skin!

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Here at GPD, we are obsessed with antioxidants, so when we think about the absolute essentials of a skincare regimen, vitamin C is always included.  Here is everything you ever need to know about:

  • which vitamin C you should choose 

  • when you should apply vitamin C, and

  • the multitude of reasons why you need ascorbic acid in your life (and on your face, neck, and hands). 

Vitamin C is important for all age groups and skin types

Vitamin C is scientifically known as ascorbic acid.  We humans don’t naturally produce enough vitamin C to reach the skin because we lack a necessary enzyme. So, if you want the benefits of vitamin C, you have to apply it to your skin. Bonus: it is also one of a handful products that may be used through pregnancy and nursing. 

Vitamin C has far-reaching benefits

As an antioxidant, vitamin C squelches free radicals from sun and other damage – free radicals are particles that cause inflammation. Vitamin C not only stabilizes and protects collagen from degrading, it stimulates an increase in collagen production. Think thicker, collagen-rich skin. One of its lesser recognized effects, vitamin C decreases melanin formation. This means decreasing pigmentation, or evening out skin tone. These can be pigmentary changes driven by aging or  hormones such as in melasma. Patients often describe this as a brightening effect – there is enhanced skin radiance. 

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Apply in the morning, under sunblock

There are many products that include ascorbic acid in their nighttime formulations, however, it’s best use is first thing in the morning underneath sunblock. Vitamin C should not be coupled with retinol or niacinamide as their pH levels are incompatible. Apply vitamin C first then layer on your moisturizer and sunblock. It will serve as a safety net against damage from UV rays that penetrate past your sunblock. It is also a second layer of defense beyond your sunscreen, protecting your skin cells from other harmful agents besides UV radiation.  Vitamin C can be a liquid solution, a gel, a powder mixed in with your moisturizer, or a serum stored in ampules or delivered via a dropper.

Store your vitamin C in a temperature-controlled spot with minimal light

Vitamin C is prone to oxidizing or going bad with exposure to light or air. A vitamin C product will naturally darken in color as it oxidizes (reacts to oxygen).  Store your vitamin C in a temperature-controlled location with minimal light – but not so far away that you forget to use it! And if your product does not darken with time, it may not have the active C you think it has.


Now you know what to do – which should you use? There are many options. Often, vitamin C is pricey mostly because of the difficulty in formulating and packaging a lasting product that you can use before it oxidizes.  We’ve inserted topical vitamin C options at every price point below. If you already  have a vitamin C product, make sure that it has 8-20% ascorbic acid. Also, the list of ingredients should be relatively short. More ingredients mean that the vitamin C is unlikely to stay stable with all its co-ingredients. 


At the drugstore

L’Oreal Revitalift – easy to find, gel

La Roche-Posay Vitamin C Serum  - easy to find, liquid serum 

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Online

Elizabeth Arden Vitamin C Ceramide Capsules – individually-packaged ampoules, easy for travel

Kiehl’s Powerful-Strength Line-Reducing Concentrate - 

Summer Fridays – CC Serum – green product

SkinCeuticals Serum 20 – acne or rosacea-prone skin

SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic – dry skin

SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF – melasma or pigmented skin

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Physician-Office Dispensed

Skin Better Science Alto Defense –in a pump ; vitamin C, E, ferulic, glutathione, and niacinamide, plus others! Can be purchased online as well : https://skinbetter.pro/gramercyparkdermatology.

Posted by Dr. Panta Rouhani Schaffer








 






Dr. Linda